Delectable kebabs, fragrant biryani, and fluffy, cloud-like desserts.
The metropolis in India's north of Lucknow has forever been a dream destination for epicures, with locals and tourists alike swearing by its exquisite cuisine.
An International Accolade
In a recent announcement, Unesco designated it as a City of Gastronomy within its Creative Cities Network – placing it on a select group of international urban centers and kindling hopes that it will showcase Lucknow's sublime food. With this designation, it enters a global network of more than four hundred cities across over 100 countries committed to promoting "innovation as a catalyst of sustainable urban development".
The recognition "stands as proof of its centuries-old food heritage and lively culinary scene," according to a representative from Unesco's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is merely the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was selected in 2019 – to earn a spot in this coveted list of seventy urban centers internationally.
An Urban Center with a Culinary Soul
The honor for this time-honored city is little surprise to its inhabitants or avid food lovers. Many agree with the sentiment that it is "a recognition that was delayed".
With the UNESCO accolade, this adored, chaotic, and eclectic city – the administrative center of India's biggest state – is at last in the spotlight for what has perennially shaped its soul: an profound passion for food.
"'The day's menu, how will it be cooked' is a ongoing conversation from waking up until going to bed in most homes," notes a local cultural expert. "And you are actually judged by the standard of food that comes out of your kitchen."
An Imperial Food Tradition
The City of Nawabs – as it's popularly called after its historic affluent Muslim rulers – is famed for its tender kebabs and a singular take on biryani that were created, evolved, and taken to extraordinary levels in their imperial kitchens.
These royal kitchens were epicenters of culinary innovations, fusing Iranian and local Indian styles to create what became known as the cuisine of Awadh.
It was during this time that Lucknow's renowned kebabs were created. Legend has it that the mutton galouti was invented to feed an ageing nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His chefs minced the meat with papaya, saffron, and a blend of spices and made it so silky that it needed no chewing.
But perhaps the biggest contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a low, leisurely heat, with the container's cover securely sealed with a flour paste.
A Diverse Culinary Landscape
Apart from the obvious kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also developed a vast array of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a rich bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not only about kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a dream for plant-based eaters.
The local Baniya community's cuisine doesn't just celebrates local ingredients but also gives the city its highly curated Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – zesty fried snacks.
Time-Tested Food Joints
Virtually on many street corners, there are little shops and stalls – little-known gems that are immensely popular with the locals.
In the heart of the city of Hazratganj, huge crowds start milling around from early morning at a famous tea stall to get a piping hot cup of spiced tea with milk, presented in kulhads, along with pillowy soft buns slathered with freshly churned white butter.
To start the day, one can visit a no-frills joint located in the old city area of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was founded, the place is still highly popular for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Preserving Tradition for the Future
The city also presents special seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a frothy dessert available in the winter. The method of making it is scientific and involved. The artisan beats the milk and then leaves it out at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its incredible airy feel.
On chilly mornings, street vendors line up in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. A number of however say that their younger generation are unwilling to take up the skill.
A renowned chef from Lucknow has noted that the city's rich food legacy positions it among the best of the Indian street food experience. The real value from the UNESCO recognition, however, will occur only if Lucknow can now build recognition about its lesser-known eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow comes with a history – influenced by multi-generational food businesses, from modest street carts to bustling restaurants, and secret family recipes.
The international acclaim, it is anticipated, will encourage more people around the world to discover these narratives and visit the city to delight in the culinary delights of Lucknow.
